Categories: Reviews

Maurice LaCroix’s Calendrier Retrograde In Steel

Less is more with this Masterpiece from Maurice LaCroix. This renowned Swiss brand has struck oil with this minimalist’s dream come true. Maurice LaCroix has focused on the retrograde display style with this model.

The Calendrier Retrograde features both the date at 10; and the power reserve at 2 using this display type. For those not familiar with Retrogrades, this complication uses about 2/3 of a subdial and upon completion of a cycle flies back to the start to begin said cycle anew. Retrogrades are not found in every watch manufacturer and are highly sought after by collectors and aficionados.

The Calendrier Retrograde boasts a case of 43mm excluding the prominent main crown. The main crown features a textured ring allowing for easy winding and adjustments to the date and time. The case is manufactured in stainless steel with a highly polished finish. The scratch resistant sapphire crystal carries an antireflective coating on both sides and is slightly domed giving this piece a flowing look. The case back is screwed and carries a sapphire crystal exhibition window where one can see the movement.

The movement used on this fine timepiece is the Swiss Made Caliber ML190. The ML190 carries 57 jewels and has a power reserve of 52 hours when fully wound. Making sure that this watch isn’t just stunning but precise the team at Maurice LaCroix have adjusted the Calendrier Retrograde at 5 positions first when fully wound and again after 24 hours. It is this almost obsessive desire for excellence that has set Maurice LaCroix apart from many of its competitors.

There is another marked difference in the ML190 and that is the vibrations per hour; watches nowadays tend to beat at higher frequencies like 4 or even as high as 5Hz (28,800 – 36,000 vph), whereas this watch vibrates at 2.5Hz (18,000 vph). This slower rate of vibrations puts less strain on the watch and can potentially help it to last longer without servicing it as regularly as other watches.

The dial is made from a solid plate of 925 silver and is available in black or silver both with a sun brushed finishing. The hours and minutes hands are stamped and feature diamond cut heads. All the hands on this watch are Rhodium colored for optimal legibility on the black dial and black gold colored on the silver dial.

The strap on this amazing watch is crafted from genuine crocodile which has been lined with calfskin and has, in turn, been hand stitched. The stainless steel buckle folds and is secured by a double push piece release system. The Calendrier Retrograde from the Masterpiece collection is water resistant to 50 meters (5 ATM) and currently retails for USD $6920.

ryan

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